Hancocks previews magnificent selection of signed jewellery and gemstones at Masterpiece London
An exceptional selection of rare jewellery, gemstones and objets d’art will be previewed by Hancocks London at Masterpiece this month (28 June-4 July 2018).
Masterpiece Fair is London’s premier showcase for art and antiques, with millions of pounds worth of work on sale, and is regarded as the most chic of art fairs in the capital, attracting buyers and collectors around the world.
Highlights include an important Van Cleef & Arpels diamond necklace featuring 67 carats of diamonds, a 13.70 carats vintage Asscher diamond ring, a 1920s Cartier desk clock, and an exceptionally rare rose quartz octagonal box by Marchak with mosaic gemstone lid by Vladimir Makowsky.
In total, more than 140 pieces will be on preview on Hancocks stand which can be found at B04 at the Fair. Highlights from Hancocks London include:
An important Van Cleef & Arpels diamond necklace, dated 1956, formerly purchased by financier Edward Hutton. Truly breath taking and oozing Hollywood glamour, the necklace features diamonds weighing a total of 67.91 carats. It includes 13 marquise diamond drops weighing a total of 32.22 carats, mainly D colour, of which seven of the stones are potentially flawless and Type IIa – these are the most valued and the purest type of diamonds thought to have originated from the world famous Golconda mines. A further 30.33 carats of round brilliants and smaller marquises make up this striking necklace from one of France’s most famous jewellery houses favoured by films stars and royalty for more than a century.
The necklace’s former owner, Edward Francis Hutton, was co-founder of E. F. Hutton & Co. E. F. the American stock brokerage firm. This was one of the most respected financial firms in the United States and for several decades was the second largest brokerage firm in the United States.
A magnificent 13.70 carats vintage Asscher diamond ring: This vintage Asscher cut diamond highlight the beauty and elegance associated with Art Deco style according to Guy Burton, Director of Hancocks London. He comments: “This particular diamond has been cut exceptionally, likely around the 1930s, and when worn, it comes alive given its cut. It’s an extremely beautiful diamond and is set with 1.32 carats of bullet cut diamonds to emphasise the geometric Art Deco feel of the cut of the centre stone. “Asschers have a timeless appeal which makes them very attractive to collectors today.”
A 12.34 carats Cartier old mine cut diamond ring, circa 1930s.
The magnificent cushion cut diamond ring, mounted by Cartier, is set to the centre with a beautiful, lively vintage cushion-cut diamond.
Guy Burton comments: “The appeal of old cut diamonds is their rarity. The level of craftsmanship and skill required to create such a beautiful diamond by hand, together with the facts that the ring is signed Cartier and the diamond is a significant size makes this piece extremely appealing to buyers who want a fabulous diamond, set in a piece of signed jewellery from the highly desirable Art Deco period. It literally ticks all the boxes!”
Other highlights include:
A 1920s Cartier desk clock. A host of materials – including rock crystal, diamond and enamel – have been used to create the Roman scene on this desk clock by Cartier. Dated circa 1920-1925, its circular face of rich blue enamel overlaid with a reverse carved disc of two putti seated on clouds playing with floating scarves. The dial of white enamel with gold Roman numerals is interspersed with gold flower motifs and edged with a fine row of rose-cut diamonds, with diamond-set hands, all set within a rock crystal frame embellished to the lower corners with rose-cut diamonds flower clusters.
Guy Burton says: “The astonishing detail displayed in this clock demands a level of craftsmanship that was the hallmark of Cartier clock making in the 1920s, cementing the brand’s reputation as the leading manufacturer of jewelled objects in this period and beyond.”
A Victorian amethyst and diamond necklace: This beautiful richly coloured Victorian amethyst and diamond collet necklace boasts a detachable cross pendant. Dated circa 1890, the finely articulated necklace is composed of 26 richly coloured square amethysts in yellow gold settings interspersed with old-cut diamond links.
Guy Burton comments: “The Victorian age was a time of classical revival, a harkening back to ancient civilizations including Biblical references, as well as the gothic period in England and France.
“Jewellers in this era used a wide variety of gem materials during this period and the Victorians were well known for their love of amethysts as it signified deep love. They wore it in a variety of ways, often set in gold.”
An exceptional rose quartz and gem-set box by Marchak. Appealing to collectors of objets d’art, this is a rare piece from the Art Deco era, signed by the jeweller who was know as the ‘Cartier of Kiev’, Marchak, in 1925. The octagonal box is carved from a single piece of pale pink rose quartz and edged around the top with a rim of yellow gold. The lid of yellow gold inlaid with a panel of exquisitely crafted gemstone mosaic by the master craftsman Vladimir Makowsky. This depicts a landscape with a male and female figure seated on a bench surrounding a large mother-of-pearl wisteria tree under whose hanging boughs they relax, smoking a pipe and reading a book respectively, in the foreground a flower bed of carved gold with flowers in coral, malachite, lapis lazuli and turquoise.
Guy Burton adds: “It is very rare to see the signatures of these two highly important Russian born Parisian jewellers together. So much of Makowsky’s work went unsigned that even when a collaboration is suspected it cannot usually be verified. The signatures together on this remarkable box confirm beyond question that the master of mosaic inlay did indeed work with Marchak as he did with numerous other fine jewellery houses in Paris during the 1920s and 1930s.”
A 16.49 carats pair of ‘Eclipse’ earrings by Amy Burton Fine Jewellery. Jewellery designer Amy Burton draws inspiration from sources such as art, travel and sculpture as part of her design process. In her latest creation, Amy Burton has created a pair of avant-garde earrings which seamlessly bring old world and contemporary style together using a pair of old cut diamonds weighing 8.45 carats and 8.04 carats. The diamonds have been beautifully mounted within a black rhodium gold bezel encircled with a row of inverted round brilliant diamonds, set into 18 carat rose gold earrings.
Guy Burton comments: “Lively old cut diamonds of this size, colour and clarity are incredibly rare to find. We’re delighted to preview these for the first time at Masterpiece.”
A Victorian old cut diamond bangle/bracelet: two bracelets in one design
The last but certainly not least piece featured in Hancocks London’s highlights for Masterpiece Fair is a striking and highly unusual old cut diamond bracelet from the Victoria era. Dated circa 1890, the bracelet is designed as a solid hinged bangle with a central row of 24 large old European brilliant cut diamonds (estimated weight 29.8 carats) set between two outer rows of small old Europeans cut diamonds, all set in silver on gold. Typical of transformation jewellery that was popular in the Victorian era, the central row detaches to form a classically elegant line bracelet of impressive proportions.
Guy Burton, Director of Hancocks London, says: “Masterpiece gives us a wonderful opportunity to present a carefully curated selection of jewellery, exceptional gemstones and objets d’art which we offer in our shop in Mayfair’s world famous Burlington Arcade. We are looking forward to an exciting Masterpiece Fair and meeting collectors from all over the world.”
Hancocks at Masterpiece: Hancocks will be exhibiting at Masterpiece, stand B03. To book an appointment, please call Hancocks on 020 7493 8904. Follow Hancocks on Instagram @Hancocks_London.