A historic 5.67ct antique Colombian emerald and diamond jewel, owned by a family descended from the 11th-century High King of Ireland, Brian Boru, is being offered for sale in London this month.
This important jewel, a convertible pendant / bangle, has been held by the O’Brien dynasty for over a century. It represents a once-in-a-generation find for collectors, combining aristocratic heritage and provenance, with gemmological importance.
The emerald has received a rare and coveted Appendix letter from the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF)*. which describes it as an “Exceptional Emerald”.
A lineage of royalty The emerald jewel is linked to the O’Briens, the Barons of Inchiquin and direct descendants of Brian Boru (c. 941–1014), the last ruler to exercise true authority over Ireland (image right).
*. SSEF is the leading colour stone gemmological laboratory in the world.
Ethel Jane Foster on her wedding day
The jewel was given to Ethel Jane Foster on her marriage to the Honourable Lucius William O’Brien, eldest son of the 14th Baron Inchiquin, which took place on the 14th of January 1896 at Richard’s Castle, near Ludlow in Shropshire.
Four years after the marriage, in 1900, he succeeded his father’s peerage, serving as an Irish Representative Peer in the House of Lords and taking the title of 15th Baron Inchiquin. Further inherited titles included Chief of the Name of O’Brien and Prince of Thomond in the Gaelic Irish nobility.
The title of Baron Inchiquin was originally created by Henry VIII in 1543 for Murrough O’Brien, whose lineage traces directly back to Brian Boru. It remains one of the oldest in the Peerage of Ireland.
The jewel’s history is documented in the 1939 will of Lady Ethel Inchiquin as “…my large emerald and diamond bracelet given me by my mother on my marriage…” She died the following year, in 1940.
Lord and Lady Inchiquin had six children and the jewel passed by descent through the family and had remained so, until recently. Its re-emergence at Hancocks London marks a very rare opportunity for a collector with a serious eye for coloured gemstones and love for provenance.
Guy Burton, Managing Director of Hancocks London, explains: “The Inchiquin Emerald belongs to an exceptionally small group of named heritage jewels available today. Its importance has several levels: the strength of its provenance, its rarity, and the remarkable gemmological qualities and beauty of the emerald itself. Jewels of this calibre come to market very rarely, and to find a Colombian emerald of such quality with provenance connected to Irish nobility and set in such a beautifully crafted antique jewel is unheard of. We are incredibly excited to be able to offer collectors an opportunity of this significance.”
An “Exceptional Emerald”
While the emerald’s provenance offers insight into its fascinating history, scientific testing at the globally respected Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF, confirms its exceptional attributes and provides the assurance collectors seek. According to the SSEF report, the 5.67ct octagonal emerald is from Colombia and shows no indications of any clarity modification. The combination of the size, exceptional colour, and clarity, are characteristics so important that it has earned the emerald a special Appendix letter from the SSEF, a distinction awarded only for the rarest and most extraordinary gemstones, positioning it as a museum quality gemstone.
The Appendix letter states “…It exhibits a remarkable size and weight, combined with an attractive green colour and a fine clarity. Its colour is further pronounced by its well-proportioned cutting style, resulting in vivid green hues due to multiple internal reflections….
“In addition to these qualities, this emerald shows no indications of clarity modification in fissures at the time of testing, which is a further sign of rarity… “An emerald from Colombia of this size and quality can be considered rare and exceptional.”
The craftsmanship
The jewel dates back to the late Victorian era, circa 1890. The emerald is centrally set within yellow gold claws and bordered by 12 old mine cut diamonds, framed within a diagonal surround of eight old European cut diamonds, accented by diamonds points. The diamonds total approximately 10.50 carats.
Like many Victorian jewels, and in keeping with the ingenious craftsmanship of the era, the jewel is convertible and can be worn as both a bangle and as a pendant.
The Inchiquin Emerald is on display at Hancocks London, price POA.
